Clinical facialist Kate Kerr answers your questions about the super-ingredient Retinol.
A member of the vitamin A family of exfoliants, Retinol is one of the most researched skincare ingredients out there and is known to have a multitude of benefits, including (but not limited to):
- Speeding up cell turnover for plumper-looking skin
- Increasing hyaluronic acid production to regulate moisture levels
- Exposing fresher cells to reveal a glowing complexion
- Improving hyper-pigmentation, acne, large pores, lines and wrinkles
For almost two decades, Kate has specialised in skin therapy and rejuvenation, creating bespoke treatments targeting skin ageing and health.
Here’s what she says about Retinol.
How Retinol works
“Turning into Retinoic acid in the skin, Retinol is so effective because it’s a cell communicator that can attach to most skin cells and instruct them to behave like younger, healthier versions of themselves. It is also an antioxidant, so it helps to prevent free radical attack and oxidation in the skin, which leads to extrinsic skin ageing.”
The optimum levels for use
“If you haven’t used retinol before, It’s best to start with a lower strength, such as 0.3% and build up the frequency of use until your skin becomes more tolerant before trying products at a higher strength (1%). Optimum retinol levels will also vary by age; for example, menopausal skin can tend to be drier, and a declining natural cell turnover rate means a weakened skin barrier, so it is essential to opt for a retinol level that will speed up cell renewal, without further irritating the skin.”
Alternatives
“If your skin is sensitive and less tolerant to potent ingredients, opt for a gentler alternative, such as bakuchiol, found in the leaves and seeds of the Indian native Psoralea Corylifolia plant. Delivering the same benefits as Retinol, bakuchiol helps to stimulate collagen, reduce fine lines, and improve skin tone, making for smoother, firmer, and plumper skin. Alternatively, look for natural sources of Vitamin A in ingredients such as pomegranate and rosehip. These two super ingredients provide a helping of natural vitamin A (retinol alternative) to keep skin springy.”
How to incorporate Retinol into your routine
“I remind my clients that you can’t get enough Retinol in the skin to counteract the rate at which the collagen is breaking down, so for best results, I advise to build up towards using it every night if possible. Retinol is the priority at night as the skin is more active and in repair mode, making it the prime opportunity to stimulate the skin’s cells. It is also possible to have a retinol reaction to the sun, so the evening is preferential, as skin is not exposed to the elements. Be sure to wear a high-factor SPF daily (even in the winter) to keep skin protected, as using Retinol increases the skin’s sensitivity to sun exposure.”
Finally, Kate says, “Remember, irritation and flaking is normal when you first start applying Retinol, as it begins working to increase cell turnover and stimulate the production of new skin cells. As the skin builds tolerance, these effects will subside, and you’ll notice renewed glowing, healthy-looking skin. The process can last up to two skin cycles (about 12 weeks).”
Click HERE to learn more about Kate, a clinical facialist to the stars (and non-stars, too).